03 March 2011

A day of wandering with a helpful, friendly guide in Le Mans

I've had the unique pleasure of spending an entire day with my friend and colleague J. Moulin in Le Mans, which is a fascinating little city with vestiges of Roman fortifications, medieval buildings, and Renaissance houses. I felt enlivened just walking down the beautiful cobblestone streets of the Vieux Mans, which is the old city situated on a hill above the depressing monstrosity of the ultra-modern city on the other side of the river. I'm not saying it was altogether unsightly, but sensing the contrast between the two sides of town, you could see that the bits of the old quartier were hanging on for dear life with the surrounding modernism. Yet, as the French do, they enjoy preserving their heritage and patrimony (dite: patrimoine). M. Moulin had much to say about this contrast; however, he was very happy to talk about the historical aspects of the city of Le Mans.

For J. Moulin, this place is his city, a place that calls to his past at the Lycee Montesquieu, which overlooks the Cathedrale St. Julien and lies in the heart of the Vieux Mans (old city). Mr. Moulin recounted to me stories from his jeunesse (youth) at this lycee, talking about his schoolboy days and how he went to the cathedral to decipher the Latin inscriptions on the walls for his Latin teacher and how he would explore the town to garner a sense of the history behind the walls of these buildings some of which date as far back as the ninth century. I felt almost like I was M. Moulin's son a few moments as we walked through gardens, along long stone staircases ascending to the Cathedrale and the old town. It was a wonderful feeling, a blessed feeling as well.

I enjoyed basking in the sunlight through the alleyways of these cobblestone streets with J. He told me about how at sunrise through one such alleyway street, the issuing light creates a beautiful image that can be transcribed to a photograph. Through another at sunset, an issuing red light creates a magnificent glow that also is picturesque. My imagination marveled at these words as I gazed through and saw the remains of medieval and Renaissance architecture. My heart itself glowed. Speaking of lights, J. told me that each December, they illuminate the old city in what appear to be Christmas lights. Apparently, it is a spectacle to be seen. I can only imagine how wonderful it is in the wintertime.

It was a huge treat to be able to talk to J. the entire time in French about his heritage and history in Le Mans and how he has seen the ville change over time. He will admit that his memory is not the best, but it is great to hear him talk about his city in such intimate ways. As he looks at the evolution of the city into an industrialized center, he always will hold dear the Vieux Mans, which, for him, is the coeur (heart) of the city. I can see why, because it certainly is rich and beautiful. I'm thankful to God for this day as I got to experience a unique city with a native. I'll definitely treasure that for a long time.

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